Each breath formed a new drop of sweat on my forehead. I wasn’t running, hiking, or in an interview – just breathing. It was that hot outside. I mean, what’s better than an ice-cold Coke on a hot day?
Well, the market didn’t have Coke, but it had something similar, a cola by Maine Root Beverages.
The bottle struck my attention: a lowercase font read “mexicane cola” and had a red and green patterned bottle wrap, resembling the Mexican flag.
Screenshot from Maine Root Beverage website
Why? I wondered. Why was this soda named and designed this way?
Confused and curious, I began my research. Here’s what I found:
Mexicane Cola is produced in Maine.
The company’s founder comes from a seemingly white background
The ingredients bring attention to “Fair Trade certified organic cane sugar”
This sugar is from Brazil
With nothing on Maine Root’s company website explaining the reasoning behind the name, I pried further.
I found more information on Mexican Coke.
Mexican Coke is Coca-Cola, produced in and imported from Mexico, that uses real cane sugar instead of high-fructose corn syrup as its sweetener. A primary reason for the difference in ingredients is a trade war between the United States and Mexico. In an effort to protect its sugar industry, Mexico has sought to impose tariffs on high fructose corn syrup. However, the United States has countered these efforts and the World Trade Organization has ruled in favor of the US on two occasions. Nevertheless, the Mexican soda industry prefers sugar in beverages because it aids the country’s sugar industry.
So, I’ve reasoned that Mexicane Cola received its name because it resembles the ingredients of Coca-Cola from Mexico.
That being said, I am not a fan of the soda’s name and branding. Mexican Coke chooses its ingredients to support its country and industry. Meanwhile, the Maine Root soda’s sugar comes from Brazil, while stealing Mexico’s cultural branding.
To me, this product exemplifies food cultural appropriation.
With food, there is a very fine line between cultural appreciation and appropriation. There are many things to consider:
Individuals from more privileged and affluent backgrounds often engage in experimenting with and remixing various foods and recipes, infusing them with their own distinctive touches. While this can render the foods more appealing to those seeking a sense of "authenticity," it can also render them less accessible and appealing to the very cultures they are attempting to emulate. Similarly, menus are frequently tailored to include American ingredients instead of adhering to the traditional components of the respective cuisines. Additionally, stereotypes are perpetuated when these adaptations are marketed as "cleaner," "healthier," or "elevated" options, reinforcing negative biases against marginalized groups. The promotion of a dish as a "healthy" alternative often suggests an underlying assumption of the cuisine's inherent unhealthiness, thereby promoting a Eurocentric perspective on culinary matters.
The cultural appropriation of food is different from the appreciation of different food cultures – however, it can oftentimes be difficult to distinguish this appropriation from appreciation. It requires analysis of the backgrounds of owners of businesses and cooks, the origins of ingredients, the advertising methods employed, the underlying intentions behind the food, and a multitude of other factors.
I do not have a perfect understanding of these concepts, but I acknowledge that many deep seeded issues surrounding this topic lie with investors, policymakers, or other structural and historic roadblocks.
As consumers, we have power. While it is a privilege to consume consciously, if we have the knowledge and resources to do so, the different products we support ultimately help amplify silenced voices. It’s not about becoming an expert on every product we consume. It’s about making more educated choices in daily practices like eating food. It’s supporting local markets, it’s attending food festivals, it’s asking questions and seeking more knowledge. And, it’s certainly about choosing Jarritos Mexican Cola instead of Maine Root’s Mexicane Cola.
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